My last blog post painted a picture of mild distress. And honestly for a few weeks we were quite anxious. Options were being cut off as ports and towns began closing all around us. We had begun to question the sanity of our decision to leave the safety of Marina de La Paz and venture out into the Sea of Cortez. Did we really believe that we should have some charmed life that left us untouched by the world crisis. Well, perhaps we have done something good and right in our lives for which we should now be rewarded …. Or maybe at sometime down the road we will have to pay greatly for the gifts we are now receiving because life on the sea has settled into a pleasant rhythm of beach walks, exploration, sailing, kayaking, and wildlife.
Steve and I spent a few days in Puerto Escondido catching our breath from being harried up the coast. We did some laundry (a real treat when we are living at anchor where clean clothes involves a bucket and an aching back), caught up with online stuff, and got supplies before heading out to Isla Carmen. Our plan was to explore a few anchorages that despite our many visits to this area we had never seen. We made a quick two night stop in one of our favorite spots, Bahia Marquer and then began a counter clockwise journey around the island.
Our first day out we were greeted by a pod of over 100 dolphins, 20 or so decided to follow and play with us for about 30 minutes. It was so exhilarating watching them ride the bow wave. Pictures and video just don’t do it justice. Some things are felt more than seen and just fall flat on the screen. But I have tried to offer at least a glimps.
We were heading for a small cove called Perico south but ended up anchoring in the huge bay of Salinas. In years gone past there was a salt mining facility here. The company built a town and there was a school, a church, a store and housing for the families who worked there. Since the closure in the mid 80’s the building and equipment have been left to return to the earth. The metal machinery looking like its melting back into the salt. Now there is a hunting lodge and preserve for the Borrego (big horn sheep) and with the caretakers permission we wandered through the old town and salt ponds. It was fascinating and beautiful. I’m not sure why we are so attracted to the crumbling past but we find ourselves locked in curiosity as we poke, prod, and speculate about the life of those who lived and worked here.
After a few days of exploring the wide sandy white beaches and decaying facilities we got a time check from mother nature. The winds kicked up from the south making the anchorage bouncy and uncomfortable so we pulled up the hook and continued our journey up the east side of the Island. It is often the case that we are force to leave a place before we are ready. I expect we will be returning to this bay again to snorkel around the wreck of an 80 foot tuna boat that sits on the seafloor in the middle of the bay.
Our next stop was a little place we had visited a few years ago called V-Cove apply named for its shape. Its a sweet place with sea caves and a tiny white sandy beach. The anchorage is just perfect for a single boat and we had the place all to ourselves, except for the alternating visits of dinghies full of people coming from a neighboring cove to see when we were leaving so they could take our place. Its just one of those dreamy, romantic, desirable spots. We spent four days kayaking in the multicolored sea caves, walking the beach, and exploring in our dinghy. And the big news is that Steve caught his first ever fish in Mexican waters which made a fine ceviche.
The waters are just now starting to warm up enough that we will soon be swimming and snorkeling. As you can see we are the fortunate ones and we do not take a moment of this gift for granted. We feel for our family and friends and the world at large as people are struggling to maintain a reasonable life and keep their sanity. We wish you could all join us here. The island seems big enough, Steve could catch more fish and I would be happy to cook if someone else will do the laundry 😉
Feeling enormous gratitude….. Love and Hugs to all.